by Jacqui Thompson

Mention the words game lodge to most people and they often envisage zebra and wildebeest skins scattered across polished red cow dung floors, stuffed animal heads with glassy eyes staring blindly down on sunburnt tourists sipping G&Ts, beaded whatnots, heavy dark furniture, and thatched roofs.  Thank heavens that old quintessential décor item: the elephant foot ashtray has ceased to be desirable as we, the most violent species on the planet, agree it is no longer acceptable to hack off an elephant’s legs just so we can put our stompies out. Ugh. Shudder.

The breakaway-from-the-herd décor is just one of the reasons I love Sabi Sabi’s Earth Lodge. It is a pretty unique place and devoid of the usual, the ordinary and the mundane. Driving through the Sabi Sands Game Reserve on the western boundary of Kruger National Park, on the sand road through the reserve to the lodge, you won’t see any structures giving away the location of the lodge. You just suddenly arrive at a path between two elegantly curving earth walls sloping down between gentle hillocks topped with tufted grass.  No buildings and no lodge are visible.

Walking down into the hidden lodge you emerge through fortress like wooden doors to a vista of light, space and sound. The lodge is built into a hillside and overlooks a watering hole complete with grouchy resident hippo. Clean lines, almost ascetic décor and space glorious space makes you feel you are right in the Bushveld even as you check in at reception.  Instead of the head of a slaughtered and stuffed warthog there’s an easel with paints to encourage guests to find their inner artist. (I subsequently discovered mine is very well hidden).

The natural looking water feature, complete with massive tree trunks, dominates the main building and is home to a gazillion frogs that sing happily as soon as night falls. The lodge and suites are peppered with organic sculptures.  Trees; branches, trunks and roots, damaged and uprooted in the February 2000 floods have been crafted into dramatic headboards, fantastical seats (I kept expecting Gandalf to sink into the massive wooden tree chair outside the bar) and beautiful counter tops.

Each suite is tucked into its own little hill and overlooks its private plunge pool and the bush. I spent the afternoon wallowing while watching the hippo complaining about anyone using ‘his’ water. He charged a herd of impala, successfully scattering them, but took the safer option and only bitched and grumbled at a herd of buffalo that merely glared at the hippo like he owed them money. Caution favours the prudent hippo who lives to defend his dam against everything from ducks to elephants. When not chasing off drinkers and wannabe bathers the hippo has a comical trait of turning somersaults in the water.

Another uniquely Earth Lodge touch, which I have never seen at any other lodge, is that the rangers change for dinner. No sweaty khaki shirt here welcome in the elegant boma.  They change into crisp white shirt which go so well with the ambience and staff that whip off gleaming cloches to reveal tantalizing dishes.

We were there for three nights and each evening dined in a different location: the underground wine cellar, in a clearing closer to the dam but away from the cantankerous territorial hippo and once in the boma.

Staying in such a beautiful tranquil place made it difficult for me to drag myself away from the spa (the best facial I have ever had!), meditation of the Zen garden and the well-stocked library to go on game drive. But I did manage to go at least once a day. If you do decide to treat yourself, make sure you book enough time to enjoy the game viewing and the quiet magnificence of one of our most original game lodges. I promise the only elephant’s feet you’ll see will be attached to the rightful owners!

For more information go to : www.sabisabi.com

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